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(text by Maria Cristina Castellucci –
photos by Pucci Raeli, Francesco Alaimo, Ist. Studi
Acrensi)
The theatre of Akrai, compared to those of Syracuse and
Greece, is definitely small. However, during the last
performances more than a thousand people were inside,
and some great actors have tread its stage. Andrea, our
leader, remembers for instance Vittorio Gassman and
Arnoldo Foà who, a few years ago, was astonished at the
exceptional acoustics: during rehearsals he was wearing
a small microphone, but he had to take it off as it
disturbed the hearing.
In effect, one can talk, in a normal tone of voice,
standing on the stage and be heard by somebody at the
top of the gradine; this is, indeed, typical of every
ancient theatre, but nevertheless it always strikes the
visitor.
The archaeological walk begins generally by the perfect
hemicycle of the theatre, founded during the 3rd century
BC is the most representative monument of the ancient
Akrai, which was the first colony of Syracusa and the
beginning of its expansion towards the inner areas of
Sicily.
The site was chosen for its evident strategic features:
from the top of the plateau one can overlook the valleys
of the rivers Anapo and Tellaro. Along the calcareous
walls of these canyons are several openings of the
ancient necropolis which testimony the presence of
prehistoric people thet lived there long before the
Greeks arrived and which, not without suffering, were "absorbed"
by the Hellenic colonisers.
Akrai controlled the transit on the Selinuntina road,
the main way that connected the towns on the oriental
side of Sicily to those on the western side. Its period
of greater splendour was under the reign of Ierone II,
during the 3rd century BC, as it is demonstrated by the
cospicuous building production of that period, starting
from the theatre. The latter, as already mentioned, is
rather small, the area of the stage was covered, during
the Byzantine age, by a mill, which is still partly
visible, with eleven silos to store grain. It's still
Andrea that tells us about the patient work of a
specialised company that, with foam rubber layers and
other precautions arranged over the ancient stones, has
realised the scenery for the modern actors. Then he
leads us to the discovery of the small "bouleuterion",
the place were the old held their assemblies, right next
to the theatre. Our visit continues at the two latomies,
the Intagliata and Intagliatella, from were the stones
used to build the town were quarried. Along the western
wall of the Intagliatella are many votive hollows
devoted to the cult for heroes; remarkable is the great
relief, dating from the II-I century BC, representing
scenes of a sacrifice and of a banquet. During the
Christian age, the two quarries were used as catacombs
which are still well visible.
Finally our leader shows us the layout of the city road,
which was paved with great regular basalt blocks that
can be seen among the weeds, and which connected the two
main gateways, the Siracusana and the Selinuntina. Then
he also points out of the hill where the acropolis was
supposed to be and where the basement of a temple,
probably dedicated to Aphrodite, was found.
"The divinities of this area were all females" says
Andrea with a bit of humour, referring to the other
temples which were dedicated to Kore and Artemis. But he
is referring in particular to the country sanctuary of
the "santons", which is just outside the urban area in
contrada Santicello. Twelve big, rough sculptures
represent, in different positions, the Magna Mater
Cybele, surrounded by Characters which are typical of
the iconography of the cult; this complex with regards
to its expanse and complexity has no equal in the whole
of Sicily.
The archaeological area is surrounded by a winding
panoramic road that goes down towards the modern town. A
short stop on the edge of the precipice that overlooks
the Anapo valley, allows us to enjoy the impressive view:
scattered farms, olive tree foliage, grey ribbons of the
roads and the low stone walls which delimit the various
properties and, with very clear sky, also the Great
Harbour of Syracuse.
All around, the sides of the canyon descend through
terrace-cultivations, down to the river-bed, framed by
plane-trees, willows, poplars and by the coloured
oleanders with lanceolate leaves dangling from the
cracks of the rocks.
The public administration of Palazzolo has ready a
project for a better tourist exploitation of the
wonderful Anapo valley, whose environmental integrity is
guaranteed by strict bonds. At the bottom of the valley
ran the old rail-way on the line of Syracuse, nowadays
dismantled, though it is used as a reference by the
various hikers that venture in the gorge. At the
entrance of the valley, in a hut, are the forest warders
that sell maps and also offer a useful guide service.
Along the route, according to the structure of the land,
comfortable picnic tables have been placed underneath
the shade of the rich vegetation.
The modern town of Palazzolo, which is known since the
12th century (Idrisi reports about it in his "Book of
Roger") stands on a plateau slightly lower than the site
of the ancient Akrai. The inhabitants of the latter
escaped from the destruction of the Arab conquerors
during the 9th century and gathered in this new site
thus settling the first nucleus of the future town – the
actual medieval borough of Castelvecchio – which
developed over the centuries by building the castle, now
completely ruined, and the Mother Church. During the
12th century the territory became a fief and since then,
over the centuries, various families followed one
another in the ownership of the land. The town went
through an important flourishing moment since the 14th
century when new quarters were created and palaces,
churches, and convents were built. In 1693 such
developing process was abruptly stopped by a devastating
earthquake which had disastrous consequences in the
whole Val di Noto area. During the reconstruction of the
town in the 18th century, only the ancient street layout
was kept, the edifices were made in the Baroque style.
The church of the Immacolata, which is the first one you
meet when coming from the already mentioned panoramic
road, dates back to this period. It was built soon after
the earthquake and stands on a higher level, compared to
the road (corso Vittorio Emanuele), on a bastion from
the 19th century. The façade is slightly convex with a
rich decoration of plant shoots and fruits that frame
the portal. Within is preserved a nice statue of Santa
Maria delle Grazie, the so-called Madonna with Child,
from the 1500s attributed to Francesco Laurana. To the
left of the church-square, shaded by the trees of a
small garden, is the entrance to the convent of the Grey
Friars, the first mendicant order that settled in
Palazzolo. The structure of the former convent has been
acquired by the municipality, probably destined to be a
luxury hotel, in the meantime it houses exhibitions and
conferences.
From the church one can seen a long distance of the road
which is flanked, as far as Piazza del Popolo, with
palaces from the 1700-1800 built after the
reconstruction, and some Art Nouveau buildings. Among
the most interesting edifices are Palazzo Pizzo, with
very nice decorated corbels, and Palazzo Judica, which
was built for the Baron Gabriele Judica, an
extraordinary man of culture who spent all his riches to
carry out the archaeological excavations in Akrai.
The Town-hall and the church of S. Sebastiano look on
Piazza del Popolo. The Town-hall was built in 1908 on
the site of the former Benedictine nun convent, and is
characterised by two elegant side open galleries. The
church, from the early 1700s, stands at the top of a
fine staircase, in he left aisle is preserved a painting
by Vito D'Anna, representing S. Margherita (18th century),
one of the most precious works of the town's artistic
patrimony.
To the right of the Town-hall we take the via Carlo
Alberto and, to the right again, the via Machiavelli,
where at n. 19 is the building where Antonino Uccello,
an anthropologist of Palazzolo, arranged the numerous
finds regarding the life and work of the peasants of the
Iblei hills by now one of the most important
ethno-anthropological seats of the world. It is a "casket
of memories", a place where every object, also the most
humble one, has a story to tell. On the ground floor
some of the typical places were reconstructed: from the
home where the people lived in to the oil-mill, with the
whole furniture and furnishings. In the museum are also
preserved several collections such as that of presepia,
votive offerings and Sicilian puppets.
Via Machiavelli continues crookedly and changing often
name until it reaches the medieval quarter of Palazzolo
and the Piazza A. Moro, where the imposing Mother church
and the Baroque church of S. Paolo stand close together.
The 18th century Mother church, originally devoted to S.
Nicolò, is shored up because in 1990 it was damaged by
an earthquake. Now it looks like a sleeping giant, lying
down on one side of the square. The works of art
originally housed in the three naves have been put
somewhere else awaiting for the restoration works to be
done.
The church of S. Paolo was built, during the 17th
century, on the site of an older temple dedicated to S.
Sofia. Soon after 1693 it was reconstructed in an
elegant Baroque style, of which the tower-shaped façade
is the best expression; attributed to Vincenzo Sinatra,
it is decorated with statues of saints, columns with
richly ornated capitals, swirls and openings.
Within the church, which, from a cultual point of view
is the most important of Palazzolo, are a painting by
Pietro Novelli representing the Martyrdom of S. Ippolito
and a remarkable wooden altar, a master piece of cabinet
work from the 17-18 century (both the works are
preserved in the apse on the right). In the sacristy one
can admire the beautiful wooden furniture, made in the
18th century by famous Sicilian artisans such as
Giovanni Torrisi from Catania and Gaetano Rametta from
Syracuse. There are also the two processional arrays
which are used during the celebrations in honour of the
patron S. Paolo who, in 1680, deprived the Madonna
Odigitria of this role, for the will of the people of
Palazzolo. Or at least part of the population, as such
change of traditions started an animated rivalry between
the two opposing factions of faithful, a rivalry which
still today, though in a very symbolic way, is strongly
felt during the feasts of St. Sebastiano, whose church
housed the image of the Virgin, and S. Paolo. Giuseppe
Fava, a famous journalist and writer who was born in
Palazzolo and lived there until adolescence, reports in
some of his writings, this feeling of "religious"
rivalry, which over the years included also many other
aspects of social life, almost as if the town had "two
souls", joining together in the two churches.
A great number of people partecipate in June in the
feast in honour of the patron saint. On the 27th there
is a traditional pop music concert in the municipal
gardens. On the 28th there is a music band procession
and the "svelata", taht is the "apparition" of the 16th
century statue of the saint between the columns of the
main altar. The image of the saint is welcomed by the
enthusiastic population of devotees which scream and
shout loudly.
The climax of the celebration is on the 29th when the
array with the statue of the saint is carried out of the
church (the "sciuta"). As soon as the statue stands at
the top of the staircase, thousands of "nzareddi", small
pieces of paper, are discharged by special light guns
and then fall all over the array and the people in a
coloured whirling accompanied by the deafening sound of
the crackers.
As a sign of devotion people offer to the saint the
typical "cudduri" (round loafs of bread whose meaning
goes back to the symbology of the snake to which S.
Paolo is linked for his thaumaturgic qualities), and
present naked babies. The latter "offering" is performed
to draw on the children the saint's blessing or to undo
a votive offering. For the same reason women follow the
procession by walking on their knees.
Completely different but equally exciting for the people
of Palazzolo, is the Carnival feast, the only event of
this kind in the province of Syracuse. Its main
characteristic probably is due to the presence of the
whole population: everyone is in the streets, completely
dressed up or with something painted on their face, or
only with a mask on, just to give one's own contribution
to the general merrymaking.
Part of the feast, which attracts lots of people at
Palazzolo, is the allegorical cart parade followed by
masked groups and the tasting of bread and hot sausages,
as well as sweets.
From the square in front of the church of S. Paolo the
road leads down to piazza Umberto I, where the 18th
century Palazzo Zocco is. The balconies are supported by
charming sculptured brackets, all different one from the
other, probably they come from the destroyed castle. Our
next stop is at the church of the Annunziata, one of the
oldest ones of Palazzolo as it was rebuilt in the 18th
century on a previous structure which was about 500
years older. In this church was the very famous painting
by Antonello da Messina, "The Annunciation", which now
is preserved in the Bellomo Museum of Syracuse. The
church is worth the visit for its marvellous spiral
columns on the sides of the entrance portal, surrounded
by shoots of plants and fruits (made by the local artist
Matteo Tranisi), and for the main altar decorated with
17th century mixed marbles.
Once returned on piazza Umberto I we take the via
Garibaldi for a last walk and a look to the nice series
of 18th century palaces along the road, of which Palazzo
Judica-Cafici is worth a mention for its balcony, the
longest of its kind, supported by 27 finely sculptured
brackets.
During the whole visit don't miss the inviting shop
windows which display the typical sweets of Palazzolo.
Sweets – and especially biscuits – are one of the
specialities that attract many visitors from every part
of Sicily. They are mainly stuffed sweets, such as the
"ossa re muorti", the "facciuna", and the "ciascuna",
respectively filled with hazel-nuts and honey, almonds
and dried figs but there also is the "giggiulenna", made
of sesame seeds and almonds cooked together with sugar
and honey, and the "cotognata", quince apple jam set to
dry in special terracotta shapes.
The list could still go on, but the typical gastronomy
of Palazzolo is not only made of sweets. Following old
traditional techniques and using local genuine products
they prepare very good cheese and ricotta, but also meat
and sausages, fresh or dried, with a strong flavour of
wild fennel and hot pepper. A real delicious delicacy
not to be missed, offered by the many restaurants of
Palazzolo
to complete the visit...
There are still other interesting spots to see, to
complete the visit of Palazzolo. Among these two
churches: that of S. Antonio, small 18th century temple,
with a single nave because unfinished; inside there are
valuable works of art, among which some wooden statues
dating back to 1852; and the church of S. Michele, built
originally between 1400 and 1500 and rebuilt in 1693,
with beautiful baroque decorations both on the facade
and in the inside and with a notable polygonal bell
tower. Here we find some nice paintings such as the 17th
century picture of Saint Michele on the main altar.
The monumental cemetery was built at the end of 1800 and
was filled with mausoleums and chapels till 1940. These
monuments created by unknown stonecutters from Ibla, but
also by famous artists, are often of great artistic
value and follow different styles, giving the cemetery a
varied aspect non at all macabre. A walk among the
shaded paths unveils, also to the inexperienced eye, a
rich variety of works of art, in defiance of death and
for the glory of eternal life.
Finally we suggest you visit the town gardens, created
at the end of 1800, a true botanical gardens, for the
number and variety of plants that it comprises.
Useful information
How to get there: From road SS 115, the state road along
the coast connecting Catania, Siracusa and the area of
Ragusa, take, near Siracusa, provincial road 124
"Maremonti", you will reach Palazzolo after nearly 40
kilometres.
Tourist information: c/o Town Hall, Piazza del Popolo I
– tel. 0931/88180 – 882144 – 882000
Casa-museo Antonino Uccello: Via Machiavelli, 19 – tel.
0931/881499: opened every day from 9am to 1pm
Archaeological area of Akrai: opened every day from 9am
to 1pm and from 3pm to 5pm.
Visit the website |
Inclusion
in the prestigious World Heritage List UNESCO
"Late
Baroque Towns of the Val di Noto": Caltagirone, Militello
Val of Catania, Catania, Modica, Famous, Palazzolo Acreide,
Ragusa Ibla, Scicli.
An
archaeological zone between most ancient in the Italian
panorama, with a beautiful greek theatre, roman-hellenistic
road.
The
site hosts 12 large reliefs called "Santoni". It is the
greatest sanctuary to date uncovered, dedicated to the cult
of the oriental goddess of fertility Cibeles.
The
ruins of the Norman castle and the surrounding medieval
urban planning structure.
An
historical center of great architectonic value, strongly
characterized from a Baroque architecture, fruit of the
reconstruction post-earthquake of 1693 and, subsequently,
from the season of the Art Noveau.
The
religious manifestations like the festivity of S. Paul and
S. Sebastiano, known in all the Sicily.
International
Youth Festival of Classical Theatre.
The
several exhibitions proposed by the House-museum "Antonino
Uccello", the agricultural and food- Review of the products
and typical food... and more...
Carnival
is very lively in Palazzolo Acreide and is one of the oldest
in Sicily. As well as the parade of the allegorical cars and
groups dressed up, you may taste in various food festivals
the typical Palazzolo's food products like the sausage,
trout pastry, macaroni, cavatieddi (a typical local pasta)
and cannoli.
A
extremely varied landscape, with the Natural Reserve
of Cava Grande and the Natural Reserve of the
Anapo-Pantalica.
The
presence, in the beam of little kilometers, archaeological
and historical important archaeological zone like Kasmenai,
Ancient Avola, Castelluccio, Pantalica, the several
bizantine churches, etc.
